For Fruit trees to be more productive, best to prune them every year, usually during the dormant period when there are no leaves on the trees. Apple trees are the most common fruit trees home gardeners choose to grow. Pruning is necessary in order to open up the tree canopy to sunlight and air circulation and promote fruit production and a healthy plant. Follow these tips to pruning your apple tree so you can reap a bountiful harvest year after year.
The Ideal Time to Prune Apple Trees
Apple trees are best pruned in winter, but you can prune into the spring and summer if you must. Avoid pruning in the autumn since this stimulates new growth at the same time the tree should be getting ready for winter. The new growth may not have a chance to harden off before cold temperatures and frost hit, which may lead to cold damage on the tree.
Pruning Tools
It's important to have the right tools for the job. Keep the following tools handy for when you prune:
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Hand pruners or secateurs. Use these to remove small branches and twigs. You'll probably use this tool the most, so keep them sharp and handy.
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Loppers. Loppers have long handles and provide more leverage when pruning larger branches. They're typically used to prune branches up to an inch or so in diameter.
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Folding saw. This tool is useful when pruning branches up to three inches in diameter.
Pole pruners. These consist of either a pair of pruning blades or a saw blade attached to a long pole and are handy for reaching high branches.
Pruning
The first rule of pruning is to remove any dead, damaged or diseased branches, sometimes for ease of remembering, it is called the 3 x D's. Then remove anything that is clearly crossing.
When going to make a cut, look for the branch collar, which is the "wrinkled" part near the base where the branch is connected to the tree trunk. This portion of the tree has all the cells necessary to heal wounds. If you can, make the cut just above the point where the branch collar flares.
During the first couple of years after planting, you are doing what is called formative pruning, ie creating a branch network. This requires minimal pruning, while allowing the tree to get established.
Begin heavier pruning in the third or forth year of growth. First, remove any dead, damaged, diseased or clearly crossing branches. Then moving up the tree, look for branch angles, or scaffolding branches which are branches that grow from the main trunk, preferably evenly spaced, at 45- or 50-degree angles. Leave these scaffolding branches for the basic framework of your tree. This sounds complicated and is the ideal, but the main point is do not be afraid to prune, apple trees thrive on being pruned and creating new growth.
Fruiting buds are dark-colored, wrinkled wood that grows from scaffolding branches. Leave these small branches since they're the ones that produce fruit. Trees begin to form fruiting buds at around three years of age.
Vegetative buds are similar in appearance to fruiting buds, but they're not so wrinkled and dark. These buds form leaves and new branches. When you see them side by side on a tree, the difference is obvious.
Remove any competing branches that will cause problems for the tree. Sometimes these branches create a hollow where water can collect and encourage rot. Look for branches growing toward the inside of the tree, and remove them to improve air circulation. When you remove a branch or a limb, the bud directly under the cut will take over and grow. For this reason, you should cut above outward-facing buds.
Thinning Fruit
During seasons of good weather, the apple tree may produce an overabundance of fruit, causing fruit "crowding" on the branches and resulting in smaller-sized apples. In order to grow tasty, normal-sized apples, it may be necessary to thin out the fruit. Generally speaking, fruit should be spaced about 6 inches apart along the branches; thin out closely grown apples and select out the smaller-sized ones in favor of the larger fruits.
